Rough Sketches to Rhinestones; How Three Members of Team USA Watch Their On-Ice Costumes Come to Life

There are several factors behind every on-ice performance. Whether it's edited music, choreography shifts or last-minute tweaks, there is always something at work on behind the scenes.
 
One of which does not come from hours spent on the ice; rather, it comes from hours, days and weeks at the sewing machine. Designers and seamstresses work hard to make costumes, for both male and female competitors, matching pairs and differing disciplines.
 
Thousands of rhinestones and layers of fabric are sewn each season for skaters around the world and Team USA is no exception. They all rely on their designers.
 
Ashley Cain and Timothy LeDuc work with Denyse Frey, the seamstress and designer who has brought Cain's costumes to life throughout her skating career.
 
Madison Chock and Evan Bates collaborate with Mathieu Caron, the designer who has continuously worked side-by-side with Chock's sketches and ideas over several seasons.
 
And Madison Hubbell and Zachary Donohue have Hubbell's mother, Susan Hubbell, who took her eye and skill of fashion from a young age into her daughter's successful skating career.
 
Here is how each of their stories have come together at the seams.

  On-ice to Down the Aisle
 
Denyse Frey knows Ashley Cain's measurements. She has for years. Whether it was a sequined short program piece or long-program leotard, she had her tape measure, a dreamed-up concept and an eye for what would be flattering on Cain's frame.
 
She's watched her develop into the 2019 U.S. pairs champion with Timothy LeDuc, all with her designs (now times two thanks to the partnership) traveling thousands of miles around the world for international competitions.
 
Cain could not be more grateful that Frey lives nearby and has been a steadfast supporter from the beginning.
 
"Denyse has been able to watch me grow through this sport and see how I handle the success, challenges and stresses of all of it," Cain said. "The costume designer wants to make you feel confident and powerful, and that's what I feel when I think of Denyse or one of my costumes."
 
Cain has found a new appreciation for unitards with LeDuc by her side, complimenting their ability to create smooth lines and show off synchronization throughout a program.
 
But not all of the memories associated with her costumes have been fond this season. They can quickly become a visual representation of a painful memory or moment, whether physical or emotional, and Cain found that to be true after sustaining a concussion in December.
 
"I couldn't change out of my costume from the time I came off the ice to when I finally got back to the hotel around 3 a.m.," Cain said. "Then a month later, I was putting that costume on for the first time since the accident for our long program at U.S. Championships. Two totally different outcomes, but both in the same costume. That costume has been through a lot!"
 
Frey's latest design could be the most emotional and influential for Cain yet—and it won't debut on the ice. After meeting to discuss its potential, the train of Darlene Cain's wedding dress, Ashley's mother, has been used to create Cain's wedding dress for her upcoming ceremony in June to fiancée Dalton Gribble.
 
When it came to deciding how the dress come to life and live up to its potential, Cain knew Frey would be her best bet. "Denyse is such a beautiful soul," Cain said. "This is her passion and she always gives 110% to her work."
 
Cain has been through many fittings over the years, but none quite like the last fitting before the wedding.
 
"This last time that I put the dress on, everything felt real and it was such a special moment," Cain said. "It was originally just a drawing on a piece of paper and then to see it on my body was truly a dream come true."
 
Frey has sewn her way into Cain's life in a way that is irreplaceable, and she will continue to work with the champion pair, tallying up their measurements and breathing new life into programs for seasons to come.
 
Designed for Me, by Me
 
A highlight of Madison Chock's off-season preparation is the research involved for the next set of costumes. There's plenty of inspiration to be found, sketches to be drawn and group chat decisions to be made over her and Evan Bates' attire.
 Mathieu Caron and his team are responsible for helping Chock's vision come to life through measuring, sewing and beading.
 
"[Caron] is an incredibly talented designer," Chock said. "He understands my style and what I love, so I know I can trust his opinion when I'm unsure of certain details."
 
But it isn't just about Chock's style either. She and Caron take Bates' opinion heavily into consideration, especially in terms of what is needed and different for each partner for lifts, flexibility, ease and safety.
 
"Evan is great. He trusts my taste for our costumes and I value his opinion very much, so he is always involved in the process," Chock said. "We always have the big picture in mind."

Over the years, Chock has learned that despite your personal style, eye for fashion and the overall "big picture," it also comes down to making sure the costume is right for you.

"Over the span of my 21-year career I have had my fair share of costumes and the most important thing I have learned is to dress your body in a way that you love and that is flattering to your specific body type," Chock said.

Every skater's body and build is different from their counterparts, and costumes have to be tailored specifically for a variety of factors. But Chock believes that's also what makes skating so different from other sports.

"It's so unique to be in a sport that is full of creativity as well as athleticism. Our costumes are a huge part of the artistic aspect and overall impact of our performance," Chock said.

And as she's worn her well-researched and handcrafted designs around the world, she gets to continue to see two of her passions align.

"As a lover of style and fashion, it brings me great happiness to be able to share the part of myself with the audiences all over the world."


Like Mother, Like Daughter

A Mom's connection and commitment to her skater over a lengthy career is priceless. There are early morning practices and late-night competitions, takeout dinners and extra hairspray. But Madison Hubbell's mother, Susan Hubbell, has brought another skill set to the table over the years.

She has sewn all of Hubbell's dresses, from her first competition to her Olympic debut, and with so many to count, Hubbell can hardly choose a favorite.

"Luckily, my mother has always been there to protect me from the typical fashion mistakes made in skating," Hubbell said. "Her love of fashion always shone through her pieces, even when I was a young girl. I have a few dresses from my earlier years that I wish I could still fit into."
 
But Hubbell's eye and hand for fashion developed long before Hubbell's skating career began.

"My mom started her journey into fashion when she was in high school, and she taught herself how to sew," Hubbell explained. "Her family didn't have the money to purchase the high fashion things she wanted, so she would spend her money on fabric instead, and created them herself. I have always admired her drive. She later studied fashion design in college."

Now she creates costumes as a collaboration with Hubbell for each season, as well as lifestyle pieces and practice attire. They'll send each other inspiration for new pieces, and Hubbell gets to explore fashion beyond what she might find browsing in a store or scrolling online. 

"Creating garments has always been a special bond between my mother and me," Hubbell said. "I love the opportunity to change the way I feel and look on a daily basis, and my mother is constantly creating new and beautiful pieces for my wardrobe."

Now the hope is to reach beyond just the Hubbell family.

"Our dream is to create a clothing and lifestyle brand, and we are in the beginning stages of development," Hubbell said. "I would ask that when we finally launch our line, everyone takes time to explore our brand and spread the word. We would like this bond we have from creating garments together to extend past my retirement from skating."

Before the brand takes its leap, the on-ice creations will continue make their debuts at upcoming competitions, but not without personal struggles along the way.

"I have always felt lucky to share a piece of this journey with my mom. It comes with challenges as well, though," Hubbell said. "I think that we are usually our own worst critics, and that extends to my mom also. She is seldom fully satisfied with her creations, and it can be stressful for her to watch me compete in her creations."
 
But even as designs change and they pair dive deeper into their own sense style, the two will have each other's backs every step of the way.